Padding is used when there is not a stand available that is
correct to the size of the character. Padding can also be used to shape bodices
where specifically the hips or the chest might need to be larger than the
average mannequin.
Simply for padding stand you wrap wadding around the
mannequin. You wrap it once, so that it is all covered joining at the back in
one line.
You repeat this until you reach the desired size.
At each level of wadding check the size of the waist, bust
and hips to check how much more or less wadding in needed for the correct size.
It is helpful to put a tape around the wadding to recreate
the lost waist and get the waist to the correct size.
To hold the wadding to the mannequin it is good to pin the
wadding at an angle so the wadding pulls against the pins without coming loose.
You now have your new mannequin to the correct size for
reference
Bum pads, like the one above are used to give a costume more
shape, and were often used during the Georgian era.
To create our new bum pad, we used a bum pad that had
already been made to help give a starting point for drafting the new bum pad
paper pattern.
Having drawn roughly around the bum pad, we also measured
the centre back to get an accurate measurement
Having drawn out the pattern on paper with the measurements
we then cut out the paper patterns and drew it out on fabric.
The pattern we drew is thinner around the middle so that
there is less wadding inside than the one that we drew the pattern from. We
also extended the sides of the bum pad to make it fit around the character
better.
To construct the bum pad, you sew the right sides together,
stitching ties on each end, and leaving a small amount not sewn on the inside
of the pattern.
You use this unsewn space to help pull the fabric the right
side out, and then fill the pad with wadding, hand sewing it back together when
the bum pad is full.
Character shape achieved!
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