Mrs Bennet’s dress follows the fashion at the time. Popular
for her generation was day dresses, most popular round the 1780’s.(3) The style
was that of the simplified country dress, the waist line shortened and the
bosom padded out by muslin or a neck chief. There was a false rump for the hips
as well. This style was modelled on the male riding coats also known as ‘redingote’.(3)
Popular fabrics at this time included wool, linen and cotton,
silk only being worn in the evening. It is likely that cotton became most
popular due to the need to support the local cotton trade, the first cotton
mill built in Britain in 1771 (1), and the first steam powered cotton mill
built in 1783. (1)
Generally there is a trend through history that if the royal
family wore a new fashion, the rest of the population were likely to follow.
Queen Charlotte, George III’s wife was a close friend and
confident of Marie Antoinette (5). Marie Antoinette as we know has a huge
impact on fashion becoming the fashion leader at the time. So naturally you
would expect French fashion to flourish in England (6) due to these women’s
close relationship.
Queen Charlotte, wife of George III
Fashion made popular by Marie Antoinette was the new
plunging necklines, skirts opening at the front to reveal the skirt underneath.
The pogoda sleeves, tight from the shoulder to the elbow and then flared lace
at the bottom of the sleeve, also became popular thanks to the French Queen.
(6)
Robe ά la francais was known for the low cut square neckline
which creeped it’s way in to influencing the Robe ά l’anglaise which was
similar, but was worn without panniers.
Left: Robe ά l’anglaise Right:Robe ά la francais
This new French fashion was flourishing in Britain and
helped the aristocracy to assert their bedazzled influence over the lower
classes, potentially as a reaction to a loss of influence (4) after riot and
unrest in Britain, from the Gordon riots-1780 (8) to the Ludite attacks-1811-16
(7).
Mrs Bennets costume as we see it was following a mash up of
influences from France and the new English design, whilst also following the
new evolving regency costume where lots of layers were being taken away for the
simpler under wear, petticoat and over dress.
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